The latest food truck to hit OC isn’t a truck at all. It’s a Mercedes Sprinter that serves sushi. With its rear bubble windows and boxy body, it’s the unlikely love child of an eighties Chevy van conversion and The Mystery Machine loaded with high quality tuna instead of captain’s chairs and The Gang.
Spicy tuna hand roll; Rolling Balls.
I caught up with it most recently backed up to a chain link fence separating it from a 57 freeway onramp in the clammy shadow of The Bruery, a small, passionate brewery of artisans who craft batches of unfiltered, unpasteurized beer out of an dilapidated industrial space in Placentia.
This union, it turns out, is a match made in heaven. The Bruery doesn’t have food unless you count hops and barley. And Rolling Sushi doesn’t have booze. What they do have are spicy tuna chips: won ton skins fried to a wispy crackle and topped with a dollop of glittering ruby red chopped spicy tuna, sesame seeds, green onion and a drizzle of creamy sauce. This costs three dollars. I’ve paid more for a side of edamame.
Spicy Tuna Chips.
The sushi vendor makes both traditional staples such as nigiri fresh water eel and other more esoteric finds such as the bite-sized Rolling Balls: a dollop of tuna and rice rolled in crispy tempura crumbs and centered on delicate ’kerchiefs of sesame-flecked soy paper. The yummy citrus vinaigrette-doused sashimi salad was fresh, but the sashimi seemed like cutting board scraps. Miso was also an afterthought. Better the spicy tuna hand roll and all of its picture perfect, generous cut roll cousins. Who’s behind all this superlative sushi? Young Choi, the GM, will take your order and Chris Kim is the sushi chef who makes it to order. What’s next: izakaya from a Smart Car? Sake bombs from a Segway? Anything is possible.
Rolling Sushi on the Go http://rollingsushivan.com 909.275.0039
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