How was I lucky enough to find myself  at Florent and Amelia Marneau’s comely bistro Marché Moderne  in South Coast Plaza’s  penthouse suite during lunchtime on a Tuesday? We were celebrating M’s birthday on the cloistered patio with it’s black scrim filtering the light just so and gold tie back curtains separating tables with a cabana-like flair.

No Chills.

The gorgeous first course was greens and spinach dressed in smoky balsamic vinaigrette flecked with crispy shallots and cubes of tender bacon accompanied by little dollops of whipped goat cheese and roasted piquillo peppers. It was not so much a salad, as an Ode to Salad if Neruda had written one. There was also glossy boneless braised short rib on horseradish and dijon mashed potatoes served with caper tomato tartare and white fish with blistered tomatoes and creamy yuzu emulsion.  Dessert? Amelia is the pastry chef, so you don’t skip dessert here.  Profiteroles with silky ganache and vanilla mousseline.

Each dish is fastidiously composed, because Florent is in the small open kitchen, surrounded by a bustling staff,  insuring the integrity of each plate. So much has already been said about the food, which is near flawless on any given day. But beyond the food,  the Marneaus and their capable staff are all about the details. Too hot? The patio has a retractable awning that will instantly open to drink in the Costa Mesan sky. Too cold? Ever present GM Alyssa McDiarmid will bring you an impossibly soft, chocolaty shawl with the Marché Moderne logo embroidered in steely blue gray. I would have attempted to make it part of my fall wardrobe if I didn’t fear ending up in a South Coast Plaza holding cell under the hyper-vigilant eye of a mall cop.3333 Bristol St. Penthouse Suite Costa Mesa. 714 434 7900.

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